Learning the finer points of composting begins with understanding the science and life cycle behind composting. There are five main areas to success when composting:
Feedstock and Nutrient Balance
Particle Size
Moisture Content
Oxygen Flow
Temperature
(“Types of Composting and Understanding the Process | US EPA”)
Feedstock and Nutrient Balance
Composting is also known as "controlled decomposition" and requires obtaining a balance of all five areas and begins with a balance between the organics: green and brown materials. Green organic materials that go into composting include food scraps (no meats), grass clippings, and manure. Point of safety: manure should be collected and dried from almost any animal, exception of human waste, and allowed to reach 140 degrees Fahrenheit for a specific amount of time. An example: cat or dog manure needs to "cook" for at least two (2) years and should not be applied directly to a food crop as their waste contains parasites which can be hazardous to humans, particularly those with compromised immune systems. (Grant and Grant) Brown materials is just how it sounds: dry leave, smaller branches, and wood chips
Particle Size
Breaking down your larger brown materials gives more surface area for microbes to do their thing. "Smaller particles also produce a more homogeneous compost mixture and improve pile insulation to help maintain optimum temperatures." (“Types of Composting and Understanding the Process | US EPA”) There is a balancing act between small particles and organics that are so small air is unable to flow through the compost pile.
Moisture Content
Microorganisms are the workers in composting. Just as plants and other creatures need water, so does your compost pile. Again, there is a science to finding the balance of too dry, too wet, and just right. A Hydrometer is a practical investment.
Oxygen Flow
One of the simplest, in theory, of aerating a compost pile is to use a pitch fork to "turn" the pile. Think of it as needing to "brown" the other side when cooking. Some people have invested in a series of pipes to get air to the center of the pile. This is frequently seen in key-hole gardening. A more effective way of keeping air flow is to have a good mixture of large and small brown particles, such as wood chips and shredded newspapers. Too much air can be a bad thing as it can dry out the pile faster. Not enough air flow will create anaerobic conditions killing the microorganisms.
Temperature
Our composting pile is made up of living organisms. Just like all living things, they thrive in a "Goldie Locks" zone: not too hot, not too cold, but just right. This range should be measured in the center of the composting pile and fall between 140 degrees F and 160 degrees F. Learning the science and art of the first four components will increase the chances of the composting pile to reach that zone on its own.
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Citations:
Grant, Bonnie L., and Bonnie L. Grant. “Best Manure for Gardens – What Are Different Types of Manure.” Gardening Know How, 17 May 2021, www.gardeningknowhow.com/composting/manures/manure-pros-cons.htm.
“Types of Composting and Understanding the Process | US EPA.” US EPA, 3 Apr. 2023, www.epa.gov/sustainable-management-food/types-composting-and-understanding-process.s
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